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Thüringen. Männer,- und Frauentrachten im 19. Jh. Die Schleifenhaube.
Thüringen Schleifenhaube, Schaubhut. Thüringen. Trachten nach Albert Kretschmer. Die thüringische Männertracht, deren Vertreter jetzt nur noch in der älteren Generation anzutreffen sind, gipfelt hauptsächlich in der Ausstaffierung des Hirten. Bei ihm sieht man wohl noch zuweilen den dreiseitig aufgeschlagenen grossen runden Filzhut, den dunkelblauen groben Tuchrock, der wie die Weste mit blinkenden Metallknöpfen besetzt ist; oder der Hirt bedient sich auch in heißer Jahreszeit des Drillich Kittels.
Die kurzen schwarzen Lederhosen welche am Knie durch eine metallene Schnalle festgehalten werden, sind schon sehr selten geworden, doch sind lederne oder tuchene Gamaschen zu schweren Gebirgsschuhen noch immer in Gebrauch, auch halbhohe Schaftstiefel sind nicht ungewöhnlich. Sein Amt kennzeichnet ein 3-4 Fuß langes, gekrümmtes, bunt angestrichenes Hirtenhorn, das über die Schulter gehängte Ränzel von Leder wie beim Harzer, eine sehr lange Peitsche mit kurzem Stiel und Schmitze von Kuhschwanzhaaren, denen sich noch ein Knotenstock und eine Maserholzpfeife zugesellen.
Männer von Kahla. Grossherzogtum Weimar um 1840. Landleute in Sonntagstracht aus der Erfurter Gegend um 1840. Frau aus Brotterode, Thüringen. Frau in älterer Tracht aus Brotterode in Thüringen. Bäuerin in Werktags-Kleidung aus der Gegend des Ettersberges, Thüringen. Bauer aus der Gegend des Etterberges, Thüringen. Bäuerin aus der Gegend von Weimar, Thüringen. Thüringer Bauernbursch Bauernmädchen aus Sachsen-Altenburg, Thüringen. Der Bauer, wie er gewöhnlich zu Markte geht, trägt ein kurzes blaues leinenes Überhemd (Kittel), dazu eine Mütze von Tuch oder Plüsch, breitkrempige oder zylinderförmige Filzhüte und dann über die Schultern eine Felltasche.
Die thüringischen Frauen wenden bei ihrer Tracht die meiste Sorgfalt auf den Kopfputz, der in seiner üppigsten Ausbildung auch häufig zu ganz modernen Kleidern getragen wird. Diese Kopfbedeckungen bestehen nun entweder in sich hochauftürmenden Aufsätzen, verbunden mit bänderreichen Hauben, mit goldgestickten Deckeln, oder in turbanähnlich geschlungenen Kopftüchern. Diese letztgenannte Gattung ist besonders in und um Ruhla zu Hause, und besteht in einem buntgemusterten Tuch von Kattun, Wolle oder auch wohl Seide, welches als Bund um den Kopf gewickelt, an einer Seite das befranste Ende herabhängen läßt.
Um Schwarzhausen ist es so geordnet, daß ein dreieckiger Zipfel aus der Mitte des Bundes über den Nacken herunterfällt. Die Hauben oder Aufsätze bestehen immer aus zwei Teilen, aus der Haubenkappe mit dem reichen Deckel und dem vollen, am Rücken herabwallenden Bänderschmuck, zu dem sich bei Gotha noch zwei oder vier vom Kopf abstehende Ouerschleifen gesellen, und ferner aus einem ringartigen Bund, in welchen die Haubenkappe gestülpt oder welcher derselben vorgebunden wird, so, daß dieser aufrecht stehende Bund die Fassade des Kopfputzes bildet.
Um Gotha besteht derselbe bei der Schleifenhaube aus einem dunkelfarbigen oder schwarzen Tuch, dessen Zipfel mit bunter Borte besetzt, seitwärts vom Gesicht herabhängen; übrigens bietet dieser Bund für die verschiedenartigsten Anordnungen von schwarzen Atlasschleifen mit hoch empor stehender Kantenkrause dem ländlichen Schönheitssinn ein reiches Feld.
Thüringen, Erfurt. Atlasrosetten mit schwarzgefärbten Straußfedern. Bei Erfurt namentlich liebt man die breiten Atlasrosetten mit schwarzgefärbten Straußfedern, Schmelzperlenblumen und Kreppschleifen, und um Arnstadt sind wieder die unter dem goldgestickten Deckel herabhängenden schwarzen Damastbänder von so großer Breite, Fülle und Länge, daß sie mantelähnlich am Rücken herabfallen; die Enden dieser Bänder sind mit schwarzer Kante besetzt, wie überhaupt die Staatshaube mit Ausnahme des goldenen Deckels immer schwarz ist.
Auf dem Feld und Markt tragen die Bäuerinnen den Schaubhut von Stroh mit schwarzem, bei Mädchen mit grünem Band besetzt. Im Innern ist der Hut mit buntfarbigem Kattun gefüttert. Die übrige Tracht besteht um Ruhla in dunkelgrünen wollenen Röcken mit hellgrünem Besatz, die verhältnismäßig kurz sind, während im allgemeinen in Thüringen die langen Röcke vorherrschen. Weiß von dunkler Wolle, haben dieselben am untern Rande, ähnlich wie im Harz, einen etwa fußbreiten Streifen von gemustertem Kattun, doch sind auch ganze Kattunröcke gebräuchlich. Ferner trägt man ein dunkelfarbiges Mieder, in welches das Brusttuch von Kattun, Wolle oder Seide gesteckt wird, über dieses ein eng den Hals umschließendes Knüpftuch und eine dunkelfarbige Jacke mit Schößchen.
Die Ärmel der Jacke sind entweder eng anschließend, oder sie sind auch wohl am Achselstück abgenäht und bilden unterhalb desselben einen Bausch. Die Strümpfe sind teilweise blau mit bunten Zwickeln, teilweise auch nur weiß, und die Schuhe von Leder und weit ausgeschnitten; sonst aber bedienen sich die Frauen bei der Arbeit der hohen Bindeschuhe. Endlich ist auch noch der Kattunmantel zu erwähnen, den wir mit seinem Pelerinenkragen schon im Harz bei Nordhausen kennen gelernt haben.
Quelle: Volkstrachten. Original-Zeichnungen mit erklärendem Text von Albert Kretschmer. Maler und Professor am Königl. Hoftheatr Berlin. Leipzig J. G. Bach`s Verlag (Fr. Eugen Köhler) 1887. Deutsche Volkstrachten von 1864-1870.
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world4.info 2018-10-26 09:00:06 2018-10-26 09:00:06 Thüringen. Männer,- und Frauentrachten im 19. Jh. Die Schleifenhaube.
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