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Trachten des Adels unter Ludwig XIV. Mode des 17. Jahrhunderts.
FRANKREICH 17. JAHRHUNDERT. TRACHTEN DES ADELS. oben: 1 2 3 4 5 6 unten: 7 8 9 10
FRANKREICH 17. JAHRHUNDERT. TRACHTEN DES ADELS. Nr. 1 und 7. Ludwig XIV., König von Frankreich. Nr. 2. Ludwig von Bourbon, Graf von Toulouse. Nr. 4 und 9. Ludwig, Dauphin von Frankreich. Nr. 6. Die Prinzessin von Savoyen. Nr. 10. Philipp, Herzog von Orleans. Nr. 8. Pfalzgräfin Charlotte, seine zweite Frau. Die französische Tracht aus den letzten Jahrzehnten des 17. Jahrhunderts hat den Grund zum modernen Kostüm gelegt. Bis gegen 1670 war die kriegerische Tracht auch für die bürgerliche maßgebend gewesen. Seit 1655 machte sich aber die Reformbewegung schon so bemerkbar, dass die Gilde der alten Wamsmacher (pourpointiers) sich mit den Schneidern vereinigte. Die neue Tracht bestand aus zwei übereinander getragenen Kleidungsstücken: dem Leibrock und der fast ebenso langen Weste, die von oben bis unten zugeknöpft wurde. Dann trug man anfangs die Rheingrafenhose (frz. Rhingrave ), ein noch ziemlich weites Beinkleid, welches jedoch immer enger wurde, bis es zum Pantalon und schliesslich zur Hose (culotte ) um 1680 wurde. Dieselbe wurde unter den Knien mit einem Band befestigt, die Strümpfe aber darüber gezogen.
Die charakteristischen Merkmale der Tracht in dieser Epoche der Regierung Ludwig XIV. sind die Grösse des Hutes mit seinem Federbesatz, der Umfang der Perücke, die Länge des Leibrocks, die Cravatte, das reiche Spitzengefält an den Ärmeln und die Schuhe mit den hohen Hacken, deren Vorderblätter bis zu den Knöcheln empor reichten. Der Hut mit seiner dreieckigen Krempe wurde aus Biber-, Hasen- oder Kaninchenhaaren, aus gewöhnlicher und Vicuna- Wolle mit grösster Sorgfalt und Umständlichkeit gefertigt.
Noch wichtiger war die Perücken Industrie; die Namen ihrer wichtigsten Vertreter sind der Nachwelt überliefert worden. Quentin hat die Kunst erfunden, die Haare zu flechten, diese Flechten auf einen leichten Stoff zu nähen und auf diese Weise ganze Haartrachten herzustellen. Ervais stellte um 1680 mit Hilfe des Krepps, der sich enger und leichter dem Kopfe anschmiegte, leichtere, aber auch kompliziertere Perücken her. Dann beginnt die grosse Epoche der Allongeperücke, der Löwenmähne, der Folio-Perücke. Am Ende des Jahrhunderts hatte man es soweit gebracht, dass diese grossen Perücken, die früher zwei Pfund wogen, nur noch ein Gewicht von sechs Unzen erreichten.
Man ging in der Vorliebe für die Perücken soweit, dass man dieselben so lang machte, dass sie die Hälfte des Körpers bedeckten. Auf gleichzeitigen Abbildungen sieht man sie auf den Köpfen der hinfälligsten Greise wie auf denen der Säuglinge. Ebenso wurden sie von den Geistlichen aller Rangstufen adoptiert.
Die Perücken wurden parfümiert, frisiert und gepudert. Die feinsten waren diejenigen, welche man perruques de bichon oder à la moutonne nannte, weil sie den sorgfältig gekämmten Haaren eines Bologneserhündchens oder eines Lämmchens glichen. Die Perücken wurden meistens aus Frauenhaaren gefertigt, die man auf dem Lande aufkaufte. Die flandrischen Haare waren besonders geschätzt. Die Farbe war sehr verschiedenartig. Man hatte graue, rötlich graue, Achatweiss, Milchweiss, gelbweiss, Kastanien braune, hell- und dunkelbraune, schwarze, lichtschwarze und tiefschwarze Perücken.
Einige Zeit trug man auch blonde, dann schwarze und zuletzt gepuderte und weisse Perücken. Eine grosse Allongeperücke feinster Qualität kostete ungefähr tausend Taler. Die Frisur der Perücken war verschieden wie die Farbe: man frisierte die Haare in Locken, man arrangierte sie zu Ringen und Rosetten und liess ein Ende oder zwei über die Schultern vorne auf die Brust herabfallen. In dem Maße wie die Perücke zunimmt, bleibt das Gesicht glatt rasiert.
Der dreieckige Hut war an den Rändern der nach aufwärts gebogenen Krempe mit weissen oder farbigen Federn besetzt, die je nach der Mode länger oder kürzer waren. Bisweilen wurde noch eine Schleife oder ein Band hinzugefügt.Bald war eine der Spitzen nach vorn gekehrt, bald eine Breitseite. Der Degen wurde mehr oder minder schräg, oft ganz tief getragen. Nach der Stelle, an welcher der Degen hing, richtete sich auch die Länge der grossen Ordensbänder. Neben dem Degen trug man den Stock mit Gold- oder Elfenbeinknopf und einer Schleife mit goldenen Franzen (Nr. 7, 9).
Die seidenen Strümpfe, die früher gestreift und gemustert waren, wurden einfarbig. Sie wurden mit goldenen Fäden zusammengenäht. Im Jahre 1684 fing man an, baumwollene Strümpfe zu verfertigen, Stiefel wurden nur im Felde getragen. Zum Nesteln der Kleider wurden nicht mehr Schleifen und Bänder, sondern Knöpfe gebraucht. Die ersteren waren nur noch am Hut, an den Schultern und an der Cravatte im Gebrauch (Nr. 2), verschwanden aber am Ende gänzlich. Dafür wurde den Knöpfen und den Knopflöchern ein desto grösserer Luxus zugewendet (Litzen).
Von den beiden Frauen, die auf unserer Tafel dargestellt sind, ist die eine im Jagdkleid, die andere im Ballkostüm. Beide tragen Perücken.
(Nach gleichzeitigen Modebildern, welche die Vorläufer der späteren Modejournale waren.)
Quelle: Geschichte des Kostüms in chronologischer Entwicklung von Albert Charles Auguste Racinet. Bearbeitet von Adolf Rosenberg. Berlin 1888.
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world4.info 2018-09-11 22:43:55 2018-09-11 22:43:55 Trachten des Adels unter Ludwig XIV. Mode des 17. Jahrhunderts.
Ein spanischer Pilger um 1820. Mijak Makedonier aus Galichnik. Trachten. Nach oben scrollen
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