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Vorarlberger Frauentrachten. Bregenzerwald, Montafon, Mittelberg.
Vorarlberger Frauentrachten. Bregenzerwald, Montafon, Mittelberg. Drei Vorarlberger Frauentrachten.
Vorarlberger Frauentracht. Bregenzerwald. A) Aus dem Bregenzerwalde. Über einem grünen Unterrock liegt ein ärmelloses Kleid (Juppe), das von der Brust an aus glänzend schwarzer, gesteifter Leinwand besteht und sorgsam in schmale Längsfalten gelegt ist. Um die Taille wird dieses lose herabhängende Gewand durch einen schwarzlackierten Ledergürtel zusammengehalten. Typisch ist an der Juppe der blaue Besatz über Kniehöhe und die mit Samtblumen verzierte seidene Einfassung des viereckigen Brustausschnittes; dieser lässt von dem auf einem Goller (Lieble) befestigten Brustlatz nur die obere Bordüre mit dem zierlich in Gold geklöppelten Rankenwerk sehen. Aus der Juppe treten die an der Schulter bauschigen, gegen das Handgelenk sich verengenden Ärmel der Jacke hervor; sie sind aus geblümter Seide gefertigt, während für die nicht sichtbaren Teile ein leichter Kattun- oder Leinwandstoff genügen muss. Als Kopfbedeckung trägt die Bregenzerwälderin die spitze Kappe aus blau-schwarzer Wolle, die aber in Vorarlberg nicht so hoch ist wie in Tirol. Für den Kirchengang ist eine kurze Überjacke (Schalk) üblich. Gänzlich verschieden von der Tracht „im Walde“ ist die im Tal Montafon.
Vorarlberger Frauentracht aus Montafon. B). An dem dunklen, unten mit einem grünen Bande eingesäumten weit faltigen Rock ist ein Mieder befestigt, das durch rote Schnüre (Briesnestlen) zusammengezogen wird; darunter steckt der oben mit einer gelben Borte besetzte Brustlatz, der sich wirkungsvoll von dem roten Untermieder abhebt. Wenig sichtbar unter dem lose geschlungenen Halstuch ist der seidene Goller, der unter den Achseln durch Bänder befestigt wird. Die weissen Hemdsärmel der Haustracht sind von der kurzen schwarzen Jacke (Tschopa), deren Aussenrand mit schwarzer Seide besetzt ist, bedeckt. Auch beim Gang ausser Haus fehlt nie die Schürze (Schoss) aus blauer Seide; die Strümpfe sind hochrot, die Ringgenschuhe mit Schnallen besetzt. Der eigentümlichste Bestandteil der weiblichen Tracht in Montafon ist die Kopfbedeckung, ein hoher Cylinder aus langhaarigem Seidenfilz, der sich oben zu einem flachen Deckel ausbreitet. Der Rand desselben wird strahlenförmig nach aussen gestrichen. Tief in den Nacken gedrückt bedeckt das Mässle fast vollständig die Haare.
Vorarlberger Frauentracht. Festtracht aus dem Mittelberg. C) Festtracht aus dem Mittelberg. Diese Form des Walserhäss (Walsertracht) — das Stammland der Bewohner des Mittelberger Tales ist der Canton Wallis — ist seit 20—30 Jahren aus der Mode gekommen und wird nur mehr selten getragen. Höchst charakteristisch für dieses Kostüm ist die auffallend hohe Gürtung. Die schwarze Juppe, die über einen grünen, unten mit scharlachroten Zacken verzierten Unterrock gezogen ist und am unteren Rande einen Falbelsaum zeigt, hat einen ganz kurzen Leib, der mit zwei Trägern auf den Schultern festgehalten und über einen steifen Brustlatz eng geschnürt wird. Unmittelbar darunter, in Brusthöhe, ist die Schürze aus blauer Baumwolle mit buntem Besatz gebunden. Für die Jacke ist an Stelle des Wollstoffes schon der moderne Samt gewählt. Die Kopfbedeckung ist bei der Festtracht eine Flitterkrone (Kranz, im übrigen Vorarlberg Schäppele genannt, das mittelhochdeutsche Schapel), von der rückwärts rote, bei der Braut grüne Bänder herabhängen. An den Werktagen wird gegenwärtig im Mittelberg, nachdem das montavonische Mässle schon zu Anfang dieses Jahrhunderts unmodern geworden war, die Sometkappa (Samtkappe), eine Haube aus Biberpelz mit einem Boden von rotem Samt, daneben auch die spitze Mütze aus schwarzer dicker Wolle (Birgerkappa) getragen.
Museumsverein in Vorarlberg.
Quelle: Die Costüm-Ausstellung im K. K. Österreichischen Museum, 1891. Ihre wichtigsten Stücke, ausgewählt und beschrieben von Dr. Karl Masner. Karl Masner; Julius Löwy; K.K. Österreichisches Museum für Kunst und Industrie. Wien: J. Löwy, 1894.
Österreich. Trachten aus Vorarlberg. Trachten aus Vorarlberg, von Alois Gabl 1. Montavon. 2. Montavonerin in Trauer. 3. Walserthal. 4. Bregenzerwald. 5. Montavoner Schäpplerin. 6. Schäpplerin aus dem Bregenzerwald. 7. Sommer-, 8. Sonntags-Tracht im Bregenzerwald. 9. Trauerkleidung im Bregenzerwald.
Quelle: Die österreichisch-ungarische Monarchie in Wort und Bild. Auf Anregung und unter Mitwirkung Seiner kaiserlichen Hoheit des Kronprinzen Erzherzog Rudolf. Wien 1888.
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world4.info 2020-06-07 23:36:01 2020-06-07 23:36:01 Vorarlberger Frauentrachten. Bregenzerwald, Montafon, Mittelberg.
Landsknechtsschwert. Katzbalger. Kurze und lange Wehr. Frau in Wintertracht aus Montafon, Vorarlberg. Bezirk Bludenz. Nach oben scrollen
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