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Merveilleuses und Incroyables. Modetypen aus der Zeit des Direktoriums.
FRANKREICH. XVIII. JAHRHUNDERT
MODETYPEN AUS DER ZEIT DES DIRECTORIUMS. BÖRSENSPEKULANTEN UND GAUNER.
1795-1797. Frankreich 18. Jahrhundert.
Modetypen aus der Zeit des Direktoriums. Börsenspekulanten und Gauner.
Merveilleuses und Incroyables. 1795-1797.
Nr. 1. Die Narrheit des Tages. Nr. 2. Die Merveilleusen . Nr. 3. Die Begegnung der Incroyables. Nr. 4. Die Croyables auf dem Perron.
Nr. 1. – Die Narrheit des Tages. Sie bestand in dem eben erst aus Deutschland eingeführten Walzer. Das bei diesem Tanz und sonstigen Festlichkeiten getragene Kostüm der Damen suchte die körperlichen Reize möglichst zur Schau zu stellen. Die Impossibles de la nouvelle France trugen die Arme nackt bis zur Schulter. Ein Trikot aus rosa Seide bedeckte die Beine, ein der antiken Sandale ähnlicher, durch Kreuzbänder gehaltener Schuh die Füsse. Selbst das Hemd aus hellem Linon verschwand eines Tages.
La Walse 1801. Die „en aile de papillon“ gekleidete Tänzerin hat in ihrer Nacktheit kaum noch Platz für eine Tasche. Sie trägt den Fächer im Gürtel, die Börse im Busen. Das Taschentuch übergibt sie einem ihrer Günstlinge zur Aufbewahrung, oder sie steckt es in einen säbeltaschenartig vom Gürtel herabhängenden Beutel, der den aus dem lateinischen reticula korrumpierten Namen ridicule erhält. Der Kavalier trägt das anglisierende Kostüm der Zeit, das habit carré, die cravate écrouélique, die lange, enge Hose mit herabhängenden Bandschleifen. Die kurze, hochgeknöpfte Weste lässt in der Taille das feine Batisthemd sehen. Den Kopf des Geigers bedeckt noch die gepuderte Perücke.
Nr. 2. – Die Merveilleuses im Strassenkostüm. Sie bilden in der Übertreibung der Mode ein Pendant zu den Incroyables. In ihrem Kostüm ist die Anglomanie und die Vorliebe für die Antike vorherrschend. Die lange Stola à la Flore, à la Diane , à l’Omphale endet in eine Schleppe, die bis zum Gürtel aufgenommen wird und einen Teil des Beines und den mit einem spitzen Schuh bekleideten Fuss frei lässt.
Die Robe der Dame rechts davon zeigt eine breite, im Geschmack der Antike gestickte Borte; die Brust ist mit einer langen Schärpe umschlungen, deren Ende frei nach hinten flattert. Den Hals und einen Teil des Kinns bedeckt die cravate écroulique. Der Hut à la jockey sitzt mit dem Haartuff über der Stirn, während das übrige Haar hinten und an den Seiten frei herabfällt. Weiche, halblange Handschuhe gehen bis zur Mitte des Unterarms. Die Dame am Arm des Incroyable trägt eine reich mit Falbeln verzierte Robe. Das über der Stirn geteilte Haar ist eine gepuderte Perücke deren Scheitel mit einer riesigen Schleife geschmückt ist. Das sehr niedrige Mieder lässt den grösseren Teil der Brust frei, während die Schultern von einer Art Mantille ans schwarzem Tüll umhüllt sind.
Der Incroyable trägt das Haar „en oreilles de chien“ (wie zottelige Hundehaare). Sein Kinn steckt in einer weissen Musselinkrawatte. Das Hemd ohne Jabot und Manschetten wird nur ein wenig auf der Brust sichtbar. Seine kurze Weste ist nur durch einen Knopf geschlossen. Die enge, lang herabgehende Hose ist vorn auf dem Schienbein geknöpft, die Spitzen der Schaftstiefel nach oben gekrümmt. Ein außerordentlich kleiner Dreispitz mit dreifarbiger Kokarde bedeckt das blond gepuderte Haar.
O. l.: Französische Tracht 1780. O. r.: Deutsche Tracht der Werther-Zeit.
U. l.: Französische Incroyables 1794. U. r.: Deutsche Tracht nach 1800. Nr. 3. – Die Begegnung der Incroyables. Sie begrüssen sich nach der Sitte der Zeit durch eine Verschlingung der kleinen Finger. Der Stärkere erinnert mit den breiten Aufsohlag an seiner gestreiften Weste, dem gepuderten Haar und dem dicken Stock noch an den Muscadin, während sein Freund mit dem kurz geschorenen Haar und dem mässig aufgeschlagenen redingote, der am Saum mit einem Mäander bestickt ist, mehr der englischen Mode folgt. Der unter dem Arm getragene Riesenhut gleicht dem bolivar der Restauration. Dieser Stich, gezeichnet Bunbiry invenit , trägt zwar nicht, gleich den vorhergehenden den Namen Carle Vernet’s, gehört aber zu derselben Serie, wie die 3 übrigen.
Nr. 4. Die Croyables auf dem Perron. Der Perron des Palais-Royal diente den Agitatoren in der Zeit der Assignaten als Börse. Einer derselben wechselt soeben diese wertlosen Papiere gegen klingende Münzen ein, während ein Dieb in der roten Mütze gleichzeitig dem Betrogenen das Taschentuch stiehlt. Seit 1797 beginnt das Eindringen des militärischen Schnitts in die bürgerliche Tracht. Das Beibehalten des schwarzen Rockkragens, des Abzeichens der Royalisten, verweist also diesen Stich in die Zeit vor dem Staatsstreich vom 18. Fructidor des Jahres 1797.
Vgl. De Goncourt, L’Histoire de la Société française pendant le Directoire. – Charles Blanc, Les peintres français au XIXe siècle. Quicherat, Histoire du costume en France.
Quelle: Geschichte des Kostüms in chronologischer Entwicklung von Auguste Racinet. Bearbeitet von Adolf Rosenberg. Berlin 1888.
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world4.info 2019-06-11 12:12:33 2019-06-11 12:12:33 Merveilleuses und Incroyables. Modetypen aus der Zeit des Direktoriums.
Mode des Adels von Frankreich und Italien um 1510. Karl VII. König von Frankreich 1403-1461 Nach oben scrollen
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