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Die Déshabillés. Haartrachten und Kopfbedeckungen des Rokoko.
Frisuren, Hüte und Mützen zur Regierungszeit von Ludwig des XVI. und Marie Antoinette. Morgen- und Hauskleidung. Ende des 18. Jahrhunderts. FRANKREICH. XVIII. JAHRHUNDERT MODEN AUS DER ZWEITEN HÄLFTE DER REGIERUNG LOUIS XVI.
HAARTRACHTEN. – HÜTE UND HAUBEN. DIE DESHABILLÉS.
Nr. 1. – Frisur à la Chartres; Variante der Hérisson-Frisur.
Nr. 2. – Die Gabrielle de Vergy *). Abart der Mongolfière.
Nr. 3. – Ballkostüm 1788. Rock a l’espagnole, Mieder aus rosenfarbenem Satin, Ärmel a soufflets, Häubchen à l’espagnole aus grünem Satin, umwunden mit einem rosa Band das vorn eine grosse Schleife bildet und an der Seite mit einem Busch aus grossen weissen, violett geränderten Federn geschmückt ist. Frisur aus losen Löckchen, hinten frei herabfallend, durch einen stählernen Haarbügel zusammengehalten. Schuh mit aufgebogener Spitze en sabot-chinois.
Nr. 4. – Winter-Promenadenkostüm 1788. Morgenüberrock aus Scharlach-Tuch, garniert mit Marder und vergoldeten Kupferknöpfen. Taille und Rock aus ähnlich garniertem, weissen Satin. Zwei Uhrtaschen mit Uhren, Ketten und Breloques. Halstuch aus Musselin in eine Schleife geknüpft. Grosse Mardermuffe. Der Hut aus weissem Satin, die Krempe mit Marder besetzt und umgeschlagen à l’espagnole, mit zwei grossen blauen Bandschleifen an der Seite. Frisur aus freien Löckchen, hinten in ein Chignon zusammengefasst.
Nr. 5. – La candeur, Staatscoiffure.
Nr. 6. – La zodiacale, ebenso.
Nr. 7. – Hut à la Théodore.
Die von Marie-Antoinette eingeführten hohen Frisuren bleiben während ihrer ganzen Regierungsdauer im Gebrauch; aber seit 1786 erscheint die grosse Toilette, zu der man die hohe Frisur trug, nur noch bei ausnahmsweise festlichen Gelegenheiten, bei Staatshandlungen, feierlichen Diners u. s. w.
Nr. 8. – Hut à la Tartare. Nr. 9. – Haube à l’Anglomane. Nr. 10. – Hut à la Tartare. Nr. 11. – Femme du jour, im Mieder à la Pierrot mit einem Rock aus gesprenkeltem Taffet, hinten bedeckt durch ein getüpfeltes Tablier. Nr. 12. – Coiffure du printemps. Nr. 13. – Hut „im neuen Geschmack“. Nr. 14. – Hut du héron. Nr. 15. – Hut au Palais-Royal. Nr. 16. – Haartracht herisson. Nr. 17. – Hérisson. mit drei getrennten Löckchen. Nr. 18. – Haartracht „im neuen Geschmack“. Puff mit kammartiger Rüsche. Nr. 19. – Hut à la duchesse, aus blauem über Blech gezogenem Taffet, mit breiter Krempe. Breites weisses Band, mit grosser Knotenschleife an der Seite. Der Hutkopf ist oben von Puffen aus weisser Gaze umgeben und von einem Kranz grosser weisser Federn überragt. Nr. 20. – Der Puff mit vier Löckchen à la chancelière. Nr. 21. – Coiffure au Colisée, überragt von einem neuen Puff. Nr. 22. – Häubchen à la fusée.
Der Begriff Deshabillé stammt aus dem Französischen und bedeutet so viel wie „unbekleidet, entkleidet“ und war ursprünglich eine Morgen- und Hauskleidung, später informelle (also nicht-höfische) Kleidung im allgemeinen.
Will man sich unter den wechselnden Moden des Tages zurechtfinden, so bieten die Namen der Haar- und Kopftrachten einen ziemlich sichern Anhalt. Das französisch- englische Bündnis, neue Theaterstücke wie Beaumarchais‘ Tarare, lieferten die Bezeichnung für Hüte. Bisweilen wird auch eine neue Frisur nach ihrer ersten Trägerin benannt, „la frisure à la Chartres.“ oder man sagt einfach: ein Hut, eine Coiffure nach neuem Geschmack.
Oft bezeichnen dieselben Namen ganz verschiedene Moden; so hat der Hut en hérisson von 1788 mit der Coiffure en hérisson nur die beide umschliessende Bandschleife gemein. Einfache Tagesereignisse, die nicht in die Geschichte übergegangen sind, spiegeln sich bisweilen in den Bezeichnungen der Haartrachten wieder. So trug man 1789 einen Hut au báteau-renversé, vielleicht eine Anspielung auf einen Schiffszusammenstoss.
Im Allgemeinen trug man 1787 und 1788 mehr Hüte als Hauben, während sich später das umgekehrte Verhältnis herausstellte.
Reproduktionen nach den Original-Modebildern. Vgl. zum Text: Mercier, Tableau de Paris. – Le Cabinet des modes 1785, 1789. – De Goncourt, La femme au dix-huitième siècle.
*) Gabrielle de Vergy ist eine Tragödie in 5 Akten und Versen von Pierre Laurent Buirette de Belloy, die 1770 geschrieben und 1773 aufgeführt wurde. Die Geschichte ist inspiriert von den mittelalterlichen Romanen des Châtelain de Coucy und der Dame von Fayel sowie von dem des Châtelaine de Vergy. Die Tragödie von Pierre Laurent Buirette de Belloy war die Inspiration für das Libretto der italienischen Oper Gabriella di Vergy, das von Andrea Leone Tottola geschrieben und von Gaetano Donizetti vertont wurde. Die 1826 komponierte und 1838 überarbeitete, aber nicht aufgeführte Oper wurde in einer völlig überarbeiteten posthumen Fassung unter dem Titel Gabriella am 29. November 1869 im Teatro San Carlo in Neapel uraufgeführt. Die von Donizetti 1838 überarbeitete Fassung wurde am 9. November 1978 in Belfast uraufgeführt. Handlung: Ein Ritter namens Raoul de Coucy weist seinen Knappen an, bevor er im Heiligen Land stirbt, sein Herz nach seinem Tod der von ihm geliebten Frau namens Gabrielle de Vergy, der Gattin des Grafen von Faiel, zu bringen. Der Knappe wird jedoch von deren Ehemann bei der Ausführung seiner Mission überrascht. Aus Rache lässt der Graf von Faiel seine ahnungslose Frau das Herz als Mahlzeit zubereitet essen. Als sie die Wahrheit erfährt, schwört sie, nicht mehr zu essen, und hungert sich zu tote.
Quelle: Geschichte des Kostüms in chronologischer Entwicklung von Auguste Racinet. Bearbeitet von Adolf Rosenberg. Berlin 1888.
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world4.info 2020-02-22 18:11:44 2020-02-22 18:11:44 Die Déshabillés. Haartrachten und Kopfbedeckungen des Rokoko.
Italien. Weibliche Trachten der Frührenaissance. Der Balzo. Luxuriöse Seidenstoffe für Gürtel der japanischen Frauen im 19. Jh. Nach oben scrollen
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